Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Closet Cleanout, Part I: Jacket Inventory

Oh my Lord.

Am I ready for this?

As a part of my Wardrobe Makeover (see Parts I and II), I need to go through my closet and chuck things that a) I don't wear, b) aren't one of my color palette colours, or c) are just too old/stained/whatever.

I generally consider myself to be pretty ruthless when it comes to throwing things out of my closet. Some things don't fit, some look bad on me, some are itchy, some I never wear. About twice a year I go through my closet and chuck things that I don't wear.

Chucking is pretty easy mostly because I don't pay a lot for the things I buy. Max $20-$30 per item, if not less. T-shirts are usually like $5-$10 each--I get a new crop every year to replace the old ones. I chuck for a variety of reasons: the colors have faded, there are bleach or other spots, my deoderant causes stains in the underarms, I'm a klutz so get grease or food or unknown marks on my clothes no matter how careful I try to be, it's itchy or uncomfortable, I don't actually like the color or cut and never wear it. Turnover is frequent

My old clothes go to the donation bin (if decent), into my pile to wear at night (if suitable), or get turned into cleaning rags. I have a pretty good system, I think.


To assess properly, first things first. I need a clothing inventory. Here is my closet:


jackets/pants/skirts/underwear & nightclothes drawers


shirts/dresses/blazers
I also have a dresser which contains my shorts, work out clothes, bathing suits and cover ups, and tank tops, as well as underbed storage containing my sweaters and heavier pants. 

I'll cover jackets first. 

Before inventory: 12 jackets, 9 blazers. Nothing donated yet but 7 items are on notice. Some I need to replace, some I need to give myself a chance to wear them.

Jackets: I LOVE JACKETS!
2 pea coats (black, army green). I wear the black one but rarely the green.
fleece lined dark green weatherproof jacket. My every day winter jacket.
powder blue down jacket that zips into a powder blue and darker blue waterproof ski overjacket. Worn skiing or if traveling to a very cold area (South Island in winter).
a very light packable lemon yellow rainjacket. Worn in summer and great for travel.
a black trench rainjacket (it rains a LOT in New Zealand!). Staple--wear all the time when it rains in winter and during fieldwork. Keeps me super dry and lookin' cute, too.














Lighter jackets:
2 leather/material jackets--mainly for fashion. not very warm. The one on the left is a staple and I wear it all the time. The one on the right is tougher and is new. We'll see if I wear it.
1 light fleece. This used to be my every day winter jacket. I love it so much but it is falling apart.
1 jean jacket*. Love the color but it is a bit too boxy. Could replace it.
1 lavender light jacket for running/summer*. Good quality but not my color. I don't wear it much.
1 cranberry light jacket*. Good light casual one for summer. I don't wear it much.

*I would like to replace the jean jacket and get a nice lighter jacket that is a bit more my color, and sophisticated. The ones I have are very sporty and casual.









 













Blazers: 
Long-sleeved:
-black
-white
-gray
-tan cords 

I barely wear the white because, well...me. I wear and want to keep them all, though.
Black, white, tan cord, gray blazers.














short-sleeved blazers:
1 tan (rarely wear it)
1 royal blue (rarely wear it)
1 pin striped (love this one but doesn't quite fit my arms anymore)
 












I adore the pin stripes!

















Work suits (jacket + bottom):

gray suit jacket and pencil skirt
black suit jacket and pants

Have never worn these but they are there for job interviews, really fancy work events, etc.






















Closet Clean Out:
I am undecided about the following jackets--they are up for donation/replacing:
--green wool pea coat
--jean jacket
--lavender light jacket
--cranberry light jacket
--tan short sleeve blazer
--blue short sleeve blazer
--pin stripe short sleeve blazer

If I don't wear these or find a replacement for these in the next year, I need to get rid of them.

Friday, February 22, 2019

Wardrobe Makeover, Part II: Know Thy Colors

Can you differentiate between colors? Test your Color IQ here.



My results (I got a perfect score of 0):





Being good with color is key for the next step in my Wardrobe Overhaul plan. In Part I, I outlined my Ideal Style and Secondary Styles that I am aiming to incorporate into my current wardrobe. For Part II, I dove into something fun and frivolous (but still kinda scientific!): Seasonal Color Analysis. I discovered it over at Pretty Your World. Then came the rabbit hole of information and millions of websites and extensively categorizing myself with defined rules.

Well. Sort of. Science and logic has effectively debunked the idea that everyone falls into one of four distinct seasonal categories, however, I can't help but think that there is something to it--it's not complete BS. I read that scientific article as a scientist and think that what it does seem to indicate is that there is a spectrum of characteristics rather than 4 hard categories. Which makes logical sense.

Great. What does that mean? Maybe some people on one side of the spectrum look better in some colors vs others. The majority of people probably fall into a few, or straddle seasons. I do NOT believe all the detailed hocus-pocus nitty gritty around it--esp because the original system was definitely made for mainly white women--but do buy into the idea that there are 'better' colors than others for most people. A quick peruse around various celebrity dissections shows that this is true. (It is so fun to hone this skill yourself by seeing what looks good and what doesn't, and then read why!) I've started analysing everyone that catches my eye while walking around.


The first thing all the color analysts advise people to do is to define if they are:
Cool or Warm, or
Light or Deep, or 
Soft or Clear.

From what I gather, there are little 'tells' to help you figure this out without the professionals:

HUE--Cool vs Warm: Check your jewelry. Cool people have skin tones that look good with silver jewelry. Warm people look good in gold. Cool people's veins look blue/purple under their skin. Warm people's veins look green or olive. Cool have blue based colors, Warm have yellow based.

VALUE--Light vs Deep: Light people have light, delicate features. Blondes are Lights. Deep people have intense, rich, dark coloring. Kim K is Deep, Ellen Degeneres is Light.


CHROMA--Soft vs Clear. This one was the hardest for me to figure out, but from what I can glean, Soft people have very little contrast between their eye color and skin/hair color, while Clear have large contrasts. A big tell for Clear is when someone has crystal clear, intensely bright eyes that pop out from their skin/hair in high contrast (e.g. Brittany Snow, Courtney Cox, Heather Locklear).

If you have trouble, there are a ton of quizzes online.

With my coloring, I am definitely Cool and Light. I'm not sure which of those is most dominant, but the next step in the color analysis is to place yourself into a Season based on these qualities:

Falls are Warm and Deep
Winters are Cool and Deep
Springs are Warm and Light
Summers are Cool and Light

From http://www.thechicfashionista.com


On the most basic of criteria, I am a Summer.

But this schema is a spectrum of sorts, which complicates things. The Clear vs Soft add another dimension to all of the seasons. According to Pretty Your World, within each season, there are 6-7 subseasons--cool and warm versions as well as clear and soft versions. Soft people can be toned with gray--making them dusty or smokey--or toned with brown--making them sunlit or toasted.
  
According to one source, there are 28 total seasons:

Summer
  1. Cool Summer
  2. Light Summer
  3. Sunlit Soft Summer
  4. Dusty Soft Summer
  5. Toasted Soft Summer
  6. Smokey Soft Summer
  7. Icy Light Summer 
Spring
  1. Clear Spring
  2. Light Spring
  3. Sunlit Soft Spring
  4. Dusty Soft Spring
  5. Warm Spring
  6. Sunlit Light Spring
  7. Sunlit Clear Spring
Autumn
  1. Warm Autumn
  2. Sunlit Soft Autumn
  3. Dusty Soft Autumn
  4. Smokey Soft Autumn
  5. Toasted Soft Autumn
  6. Deep Autumn
  7. Hot Deep Autumn
Winter
  1. Cold Clear Winter
  2. Cold Deep Winter Clear Winter
  3. Cool Winter
  4. Toasted Soft Winter
  5. Smokey Soft Winter
  6. Deep Winter

So now I have the task of figuring out which type of Summer I am. I have no clue what I'm doing, so then decided to analyse what colors I think look good on me to narrow down the options.

Colors that look good on me, anecdotal evidence:
black (because hair contrast, not necessarily skin or eyes)****
most lighter to medium blues, esp cornflower or denim blue--these make my eyes pop
teal
aqua
dusty rose pinks--I gravitate toward these colors in my nail polish and make up
cool reds--I gravitate toward these colors in my nail polish and make up
most jewel tones, esp medium to deep versions: ruby/garnet and aquamarines esp--no yellows though
light to medium pinks, no hot pink
soft navy
silver jewelry
medium to deep tone colors in general
I've been drawn to fall colors recently...we'll see how these look on me!

****this is iffy--the color analysts say that charcoal gray should look better than black, and I was probably in a black that was soft/faded a bit. Will test

Colors that do not look good on me, anecdotal evidence:
royal, almost purple blue--surprising, since blue is my favorite color and I look great in all other blues
lavender, most purples
khaki/light tan (bland, washes me out)
pastel, light colors wash me out, except for light pinks
very bright or neon colors overwhelm me (sadly for my workout wardrobe, which is mostly bright because of road safety)
oranges (I literally own zero orange items)
most yellows (though I love my dark mustard cardigans)
browns (a nice cocoa brown accent in a belt, purse, or boot looks great with my good colors, though)
bright greens
strong, large prints overwhelm me
gold jewelry

These are just patterns that I've noticed through the years, without thinking about them too much. I don't wear my deep purple shirt, for example. I never buy orange items, even if I try them on in the store. When I go shopping I heavily gravitate toward the first list and strongly avoid the second without thinking about it too much. We humans naturally go for colors that make us look good (if we can see them; I feel terrible for the poor color blind folks :( ).

So what are my Summer options based on those good/bad colors?

 I've ruled these out:
  1. Sunlit Soft Summer: probably not. I have zero warmth. 
  2. Toasted Soft Summer: probably not. I look nothing like the model-type they depicted. I don't have much warmth at all.
  3. Smokey Soft Summer: probably not. I'd never be mistaken for a Winter and can't pull off very dark colors.
  4. Icy Light Summer: I don't know much about this one, but probably not? Probably too crisp and contrast-y. Something to ponder. 

This leaves:

1. Cool Summer: Strong Contender. Palette--hmmm, maybe a little too dark?:

https://infinitcloset.com/12-seasons-color-analysis/cool-summer-palette-true-summer-cool-light/

 2. Light Summer: Contender, however I have no warmth. Pastels feel too light on me and wash me out.  Palette--maybe a little too light?:

https://elementalcolour.com.au/blog/light-summer


3. Dusty Soft Summer: Strong Contender. I could be mistaken for a Light Spring in looks, however I cannot pull off bright colors and have zero warmth. Palette:

https://elementalcolour.com.au/blog/soft-summer


Don't see much difference? Yeah, me neither. However, I am really leaning towards Dusty Soft Summer. There are too many overlaps with Cool and Light Summer to be totally sure, but I thought Dusty mainly because the color palettes of the Sister Seasons of Cool and Light Summer are not really great on me. Also, I have a number of earthy-colored clothing items that really look stunning on me--a teal, a purple, a cranberry--and I like the idea that a soft black or charcoal could work with my coloring, so perhaps I am a Soft Summer with some cool, dusty-soft, gray toned Fall influences that make me Dusty.

This graphic helps explain what soft/muted really is:

https://www.style-yourself-confident.com/color-analysis-muted.html

The ideal palette consists of colors that look better on me next to my face than colors in other palettes. To narrow it down further, I will have to pay attention to the colors that I wear and how they look on me. There are color palette apps that show the colors that work on various Seasons, and you can use this to color-match clothes in the store. I'll be using it in my closet, and seeing which colors are dominant in my wardrobe (spoiler, it is going to be blues and teals!), which ones make me look best, and then I can decide from there. 


This will be an alternative to the pricey "color draping" test experts do to people in person or over the internet. I'll drape myself with my own clothes and see what pops out. :) Given that the science behind it is wishy washy BS, I prefer not to pay $100 for a color analysis!

 
(Advanced level: Whole outfit coordination--combining the colors, contrasts, and values. This tells you how the shades and colors in your overall look should balance. There are two components: color contrast and value contrast. This tells you how many colors should be in your look, as well as how much those colors should contrast one another. Who knew getting dressed was so complicated?!

Color contrast is how colorful/monochromatic a look is. Low values mean colors should be neutral.

Value contrast is dark vs light. Low values mean the colors need to all be similarly light or dark shades. High values mean a light color with a dark color is OK.

Here is a quiz that tells you where you fall.

I fall in the "2 neutrals and a color" category for my color contrast, which means I look best wearing mostly neutrals plus one color. I also fall in the "medium contrast" category for the value contrast, which means I need to stay away from wearing a white top with a black bottom without some sort of medium tone in the mix, for example. Or I need to wear one light and medium color, or one medium and dark color.


--> Verdict: My outfits should consist of Light/Medium Neutrals plus a colour or two maximum. e.g. This

Combining this with Part I: This is not that inconsistent with my preferred styles, actually--aside from not wearing all black, my French chic-Beachy-Hard Edge style could definitely include outfits that consist of a few neutrals plus a splash of color in adjacent hues. I wonder if I can find a few examples... )

Monday, February 18, 2019

Wardrobe Makeover, Part I: Defining My Style


One of my annual goals for the past few years has been to build up my wardrobe.

As a kid, like many, I wore first what my mom bought for me, then what looked good on other people, or whatever had a cool brand-name. Damned what it looked like on me, I just cared about fitting in with whoever was around.

At the preppy university I attended, I got into penny loafers, J Crew, Limited, Banana Republic (not that I could afford it--I bought cheap knock offs). I actually came to love that style and it became a part of my personality.

In Hawai'i in grad school, and in Southern CA, I went for easy surfer vibes: Roxy, Quiksilver, Hobie, Rip Curl. I really love that style & part of my personality, too.

And of course, while I am not a big partier (I didn't have my first drink until I was 18!), I do have a streak of hard rock/hip hop rebel in me that loves lower, sexy necklines, delicate studding, leather accents, smoky eyeliner, and sequins.

After 40 years of living, I know what I like when I see it (although I will have no idea if it will work on me). However, from trying on lots of clothes and different colors on, and I feel like I am finally narrowing down my style.


Defining My Style: 

Default Style:
comfortable 
outdoorsy, weatherproof
practical/functional
basic/boring
easy


Ideal Style: 
classy
clean cut
tailored but casual

stripes
French chic but with fun details: interesting textures, intricate, small patterns. e.g. tiny skulls on a scarf, delicate leather detailing, etc., that elevates a boring top or pants or shoes
Everything as described here: The Art Of Parisian Chic: 8 Rules for Mastering French Fashion

 Basically, everything on this image search, but I need more color and a few small interesting details.

Trendy additions of basics through cut, styling, jewelry, pops of color, and metallics

Feminine looks with a hard edge
Also this whole page

Expensive looking 
looks effortless
small delicate patterns, if any--no bold patterns 

fall/winter: anything with texture, wool pea coats and trenches, tweed, leather accents, pashmina scarves, capes, cords, big sweaters, fleece, velvet, riding boots

spring/summer: navy-inspired, fedoras, metallic accents and sandals, light, easy muted florals 

I really love this casual, basic look: 

I also love Joanna Gaines' style. She always looks so put together--muted, yet comfortable, pretty, feminine, classy, with a twist of country. She wears a ton of neutrals but amps it up with on-trend jewelry or colorful accessories that keep her outfit from looking boring. Her hair and makeup also help keep the outfit from looking too dressed down. Everything fits her well. She looks like she could be going to work in her garden or meeting a client.

Secondary Styles (occasion dependent):
Earthy bohemian surfer girl: island-y, beachy, feminine, easy, flowy, (a few) ruffles, maybe a muted print


The intense red and ruffle on the shorts are a bit much but I would rock this in the right color. http://www.billabong.com

https://www.kmart.co.nz/product/sleeveless-jumpsuit/2376302
(I actually own this--and get lots of compliments!)
Club wear: Classy but tight, black, animal prints, black leather leggings, dark wash denim skinny jeans, heeled leather boots, black heeled ankle boots or loafers, sequins, small delicate studs, shine, leather jacket. Not a big skirt/dress person for nighttime, as my legs are pale and glow in the dark (!)

I'd forego the jacket and blue purse/cuff and wear my silver cuff and other silver jewelry with this, plus black heeled ankle booties. I also wish the top was a v-neck to show a hint of cleavage. Otherwise, this is very much my club/night vibe :)


Also very much my vibe, sans the white jacket and heels.
This top is almost exactly the same as the one I wore to my friend's local gay club to celebrate NYE 2019 with him--any excuse to wear sequins or rainbows! I also had on silver hoop earrings, some silver jewelry, strong eye makeup, leather skinny pants, and black ankle booties. Perfect outfit.
https://www.bustle.com/p/sparkly-new-years-eve-dresses-to-make-2019-as-bright-as-your-ootd-15562757
In this category, I also really like the looks pulled together here, though I'd lose the heels and chunky, tackier jewelry shown in some of them.
 
Goals

I end up wearing my Default Style 90% of the time because I have to wear long pants, shirts with sleeves, closed-toe shoes to work in order to do labwork (them's the rules). I also don't want to take the time to pull looks together. My wardrobe now pretty much all goes together and I don't have to think very much, which is good when you are tired from your PhD/family illness stress.

What I want to do is move closer to my Ideal Style, while incorporating elements of my secondary styles and maintaining the versatility, comfort, and function/practicality of my Default Style.

Part of that will involve figuring out what actually looks good on me. I'm still very lost when it comes to that. As described in the French Chic article linked above, one of their rules is knowing their colors. And this is where the next section comes into play!




Part II: Seasonal Color Palettes

Apparently this is a huge thing. I dove deep down internet holes for this one. Results coming in Part II!